Back To “Normal”

green-money

It has been quite a while, I know, but I had to allocate the past month to catching up with some aspects of life that were neglected after the elections. Remember, no news is good news, and thanks for asking.

After a good four months of stasis at work, it was time to get back into the race and make up for lost time. For those of us who do not have anyone close killed on the streets, jailed, or currently attending university, life in Tehran has started to resemble the hustle it used to be. Once again, we are flurrying around and trying to make a living, albeit plagued with the daily disquiet of a diseased system.

I say “resemble” because although we go to work as usual, curse the other drivers in traffic jams, go on trips and get together for dinner, some things have changed, and I don’t mean just the economy. Everybody is already despairing about the economy. Many businesses in the private sector that do have work are only finishing up with old contracts. New ones are barely being signed. The owner of a large manufacturing company told me recently that they have halted their production line (which is unprecedented in their history), and have laid off 60% of their workforce. “If we manage to sell our inventory by year’s end and pay off some of our debt, I’d be cracking walnuts with my tail”, he said.

Throw in some daily bad news, bouts of despair, occasional roadblocks, and a few new concerns and responsibilities and you’ll see why “normal” is still “different”. Believe me, making a living, partaking in a velvet revolution and waging war against God at the same time can be very trying. You’d think that fighting Allah would be the most difficult of them – rally your troops, draw up the plans, siege his castle and in one instant he snaps his fingers and sends you back to the drawing board – but no, making a living is worse.

You see, I would really like to have my own apartment here in Tehran, and I work hard for it. According to my calculations, I only have another 204 years to go before I can move into my decently-sized, decently-located flat. To simplify the calculation, imagine that I miraculously manage to save $200 a month out of an above-the-poverty-line income drawn at $700. And let’s not argue over whether the inflation rate is 15% or 25%. We will ignore it instead, as the headaches we need to go through to battle inflation will only neutralize it at best. This is how Mahmoud likes it as well. We’ll give him another one too: home prices shall not rise for the next two centuries. Fair? Maybe not, but the situation is hopeless either way.

I said decent in size and place, which translates into 500 Ks of the good USDs, or a 150 square-meter apartment in a nice neighborhood. They go for a little over $3000 per square meter. You think this is high? What if I told you I just paid $15 for two espressos and a slice of cheesecake at a joint that didn’t have seating? Luxury? Okay, how about $43 for yogurt, 2 chunks of strange Iranian Gouda, four small bags of potato chips, two packs of cigarettes, two 1-liter bottles of soda, a pack of instant coffee, six bottles of water, eight large batteries, some pickles, fruit juice and bread?

Five hundred thousand dollars is okay for your own apartment. Some of those are going for eight million. I’ll give you a tour on your next trip.

I didn’t say I was modest, but for the sake of this post, I’ll tone it down to 120 square meters for $3000. That’s as low as I’ll go. And now the best part: this has to be paid for in cash. There are loans, but even if I were the elder son of a Haaj Agha, I would manage to get about $20K, and that’s after a year of killing myself over it. What fool would lend me more with that shopping item and this income? I can also trade in one kidney for a square meter, which leaves me to pay the rest to the owner with a check from my own money. So, save $200 a month for 150 years and bingo.

I can chop more of my wants and needs and go for only a hundred square meters at $2000 each, or ninety for $1800, but I’d still be a rat spinning a mesh wheel. Prices have reached absurd levels to the point that it is soon worth it for every Iranian to move out of the country, go to London and live off the same income. I’m not whining, and I know many have it worse. I just meant to say I’ll be working less now. Better to wage war against God.

Fear Factor

wpo-sep-poll

I wanted to mention the report by worldpublicopinion.org when it was first published but didn’t get a chance. Since it was referred to by Mr. Marandi  – considered by many here to be on the academic front of the mouthpiece industry  – in a CNN discussion on Sunday, it might be a good time to revisit the topic. The report stirred up controversy here, causing us much vexation and digestive upset.

In all honesty, I don’t know anything about polls and statistics, I am even forgetting my basic math, but to accept the results of this poll is tantamount to believing that the post-election chaos, on the streets and in the corridors of politics, must have only been a figment of our imaginations.

I don’t want to hurt their feelings, so let’s give worldpublicopinion.org A+ for effort. As for publishing the results of the effort, maybe they should have considered the health hazards and slept on it. So, they left me with no choice but to correct parts of the poll and repeat it. Unlike the original survey, the refusal rate for this one was a little less than 52%, so you can take this as solid information.

How much confidence do you have in US President Barack Obama to do the right thing regarding world affairs?

I found the answer consistent with the WPO report: 16%. Then last night I asked myself the question and didn’t get a wink of sleep. I got on the internet to find out what “World Affairs” really meant.

Six hours later, I realized I wasn’t any wiser. After perusing the 38,700,000 results and getting familiar with terms such as “socioeconomic”, “geopolitical”, “interdependence”, “trade”, “foreign policy”, “global economy” and many more, I think I have to refine the question and call all those people again. In fact the question may need to be broken down, because I spent another six hours thinking about “doing the right thing”, which led me to concepts like “ethics”, “political philosophy”, “interests”, “utilitarianism”, and “eye of the beholder”.

In light of this development, I decided to leave the foreign stuff until I can further specify what I am asking these people.

Considering everything that has occurred before, during and after the elections, do you consider Ahmadinejad to be the legitimate president of Iran?

Of the 50% who answered the question, 12.5% said they belonged to either the Basij or the Sepah, and 87.5% said “considering everything that has occurred before, during and especially after the elections” they are willing to consider Ahmadinejad as higher than president if he wanted them. Hence, in post-weighing procedures I up-weighed this group and added the excess to the refusals. So the total for this question should really be “yes”.

Note: one respondent misunderstood “legitimate” as the opposite of “bastard” for which he is in trouble as his phone was wiretapped.

In general, how satisfied are you with the process by which the authorities are elected in this country?

Now this question in the report was very interesting to me, but I thought it required further probing. Here, I initially got the same numbers: a very large majority (81%) said they are satisfied with the general process, though only 40% said they were very satisfied. Sixteen percent said they are not satisfied. But when respondents were asked if they were very very satisfied, 20% said they were, and then only 10% said they were very very very satisfied.

My assistants are still on the phone with this question, incrementally adding a “very”. I will publish the results once the question is over.

In Iran how free do you think people are to express controversial political views, without fear of being harassed or punished?

To me this question should have been binary. Free, or not free. Combining “how free” with “without fear” was just confusing. Let us look at the response with a 71% rating in the WPO report: “I am somewhat free to express, without fear.” Perhaps it is just me, but I don’t understand what this phrase means. I can handle “I am free to express without fear”, or the opposite “I am not free to express without fear.” I can also process “I am somewhat free to express” and its opposite. Let me say it another way: I am either free of fear to say something, or not. I cannot be “somewhat” free of that fear.

Before going insane, I decided to rephrase the question:

Do you agree with Mr. Ahmadinejad that Iranians have “almost complete freedom”?

Lo and behold, 100% said “yes”.

Are you comfortable answering silly political questions over the phone in Iran?

I squeezed in this last but essential question to assess the reliability of my survey. 14% refused to answer because they were offended, 5% said they were comfortable, 50% said they were not comfortable and 31% responded with a single tut. I marked them as “freaked out and afraid even to say so”.

Nation of The Virtual State

The Blame Deflector is a product that is becoming very trendy among Iranian authorities. Once taken, its main effects are blocking the conscience receptors, and dissolving the testes in a short span, so the user can then effortlessly lift liability from his shoulders and drop it on the floor, or throw it in the air, for the next user to deal with it. Recent heavy users of the product have been Mortazavi and Radan who have emphasized that responsibility over the Kahrizak atrocities does not fall within their domain. I remember Jafari of the IRGC also mentioned that in the post-election crackdowns, his organization was taking orders from “above”. In the case of female users, well, we don’t have too many of those among Iranian authorities.

Although the product has been around for a long time – millennia according to some accounts – as I said its popularity is on the rise at this juncture. We don’t necessarily view this negatively, as this recent squirming is a sign that the fellows high up on the ladder of power in Iran are worrying about something. But my case is not about politicians here.

A few days ago, Iran’s telecommunications company, TCI, announced that internet filtering is not their doing, and that the responsible party is an affiliated company called Zirsaakht, or TIC.

TCI-notme
This is while TIC claims that they only implement the policies handed down to them by a committee in which they do not have a representative.

TIC-notme
Back in August, TCI’s PR man, in reaction to a US claim that an anti-blocking system is undergoing tests and will be available to users in Iran and China for bypassing the government filters, said that TCI and TIC have been active in taking measures against this technology.

TCI-antiFilter

All the while, a new “Access Denied” page, different from the regular pages issued by each ISP, appeared before the Iranian New Year (about eight months ago). This page is a redirect to yet another sister company of the TCI, called the DCI or Data Communications of Iran.

DCI-filter

Now, the above mentioned committee announced a few days ago, that new censorship laws are in the works and will be implemented soon.

newFilteringLaws

Confused? No matter. While TIC, TAC and TOE decide what other evil websites to block, or whom they want to give the responsibility to, I am happy to announce that for reasons unknown, TOR is back up again and VPN connections have been stable since a couple of days ago. I will take this opportunity to get back to rambling and catching up.

I See You

NY-truck-protest.jpg

A number of people have recently been asking me how much of what goes on in the outside is seen inside Iran. If you have not heard from me directly, please consider this post as your reply. This is a difficult question but I will attempt to answer it as best I can: we see everything. Well, probably a little less, as not everything is seen of everything that goes on everywhere, from anywhere. But we get a lot of it anyway.

Inherently this leads us to the question of how well this information is disseminated inside Iran. If we consider the entire spectrum of Iranian society, including English speakers with an internet connection all the way to the old farmer without even a newsstand, we should see how difficult it is to assess this. Further complications arise when you consider the range of internet users – a good 20 million according to some estimates – that lie between “monster surfers” and the “casually excited about non-physical postal service”. But I should answer your question.

In this post, please consider “we” and “everyone” as those inside my little bubble, which overlaps some other bubbles, hopefully overlapping others. So take it with a grain of salt, but here’s how the story goes:

News from the outside reaches us mainly through television networks, such as BBC Persian and VOAPNN, and the internet. We receive the TV broadcasts over satellite dishes, and it is safe to say that most rooftops in Tehran are equipped with those. As you travel outside Tehran, reaching smaller and more remote towns, the numbers diminish but the dishes are still there. Although BBC Persian is a relatively new service, it seems like it is gobbling up the VOA audience because of superior programming and better news coverage. Once in a while the government sends out jamming signals which means we have to call the satellite guy to come and readjust the dish, punch in some new codes in our receivers, and we’re back in business.

Then there is the internet. Big media is present on the internet too, obviously, and we do visit them to check on big news that makes it to them. We are also aware of their failures to catch the smaller stuff, or fall into traps diverting them from what we consider important. But for getting the colorful tones and finer shades, proper analysis and commentary, we crawl other corners of the net.

We see your tweets, pics, posts, leaks, walls, rumors, articles, flames, trolls, messages of support, slogans, comments, funnies, videos, and everything else you produce. Let us take Twitter which is actually an important source for us, especially for breaking news even if it is happening in Iran. Case in point: this week’s student protests. For those who do not have accounts, there are websites that broadcast the public tweets from any hashtag.  Surprisingly some of these sites are not yet filtered. In cases where filtering is in place, we use proxies to get to this information. Also, there are RSS feed readers that we can use to get to your messages through web-based mail services and thus bypassing the filters in a different way. There is no way to block us in, other than cutting the internet altogether, and the government cannot do that easily as some of the crucial internal communications, such as banking, depend on it. If they ever decide to do this, it will take a campaign of outlawing and phasing out residential connections. Even in this case we still have internet at work, and in the end, long-distance dial-up. If I have to pay a $200 phone bill per month to read what you write, so be it.

So, how does a minority crawling the nooks and crannies of the internet, let a majority know about it? Information gathered from websites is first disseminated through chat and email, and then word-of-mouth does what it does best. In the past three months, conversations at every dinner party in every household I have been to, has revolved around politics and the current situation. My cab rides and visits to grocers are laced with current news and politics. As long as current events are on everyone’s minds, news circulates very efficiently.

Other than word-of-mouth, information is transformed into a physical format and distributed through the Iranian sneakernet. Most likely, not many people go through the hassle of doing this, but some are. For instance, I know of some young people who print important pieces of news, burn pictures and videos on CDs viewable on regular CD players, and take them to their families outside Tehran when they go for a visit on weekends. It is important to disarm the regime in its effort to mask reality.

As a recent example, we saw, heard and read about how accommodating New York City was to Ahmadinejad during his trip and how comfortable he was there. While I extend my heartfelt gratitude to all involved, I wish you would keep him there as we have no further use for him here. He seemed happy too, giving hollow speeches in hollow halls.

Since we are talking about Twitter, you probably know that we have a similar service here in Iran. I’ve talked about it before. Although it was originally used for writing slogans and reminding the coup regime that we are still around, recently some have started to turn it into a delivery system for the news. I’ve also seen green poetry written on a few. We have to limit text to a few characters while conveying the essence of the news to our readers. It’s cheap, readily available and very efficient. The only issue is we do not identify ourselves on the tweet, and there’s no guarantee users will print confirmed news only. But who cares? This is an information war. So this:

iranian-tweet

Will soon contain information about the IRGC’s recent purchase of TCI and broadcast into other people’s wallets.

Inevitably, some people still remain in the dark, but I can say that I have been surprised many times when talking to people in random encounters, not just in Tehran but in remote places too, about their awareness of events inside Iran, and those of outside. I have also met many who ask what the outside world thinks of us, and I find myself only relaying positive and supportive stories. As much as you are curious about what we do, we are about you. Support has been immense and surprising to many. Watching the face of a gardener glow, when looking at pictures of the Swedish police wearing the Iranian flag on their wrists, is priceless.

State of The Virtual Nation

Ever since Qods Day, we are having difficulties with internet connections, mostly because the proxy services are either unstable or not working at all. I can’t say if this is affecting everyone, but people I’ve checked with are all complaining. The two better options we had were VPN and TOR, simply because we know how they work and they are better for not leaving footprints. VPN connections are still iffy, slow and they drop frequently. TOR has been crippled. It seems like the government has finally blocked the public relays and connections are reset while reaching them from here. We have tried to use private bridges in order to bypass the filtering, but it is a trying battle. The bridges we receive from the TOR network are either already blocked, or are quickly identified. In the past ten days I have not managed to connect through the bridges more than twice or three times, and that was early last week. Perhaps something more sinister is at work, although it’s hard to say what since https connections are fine.

Freegate, another service used commonly in Iran has limited its shareware service to certain sites claiming that their traffic levels have risen dramatically recently. I know it’s shareware but an attempt to connect to Google – for heaven’s sake – returns this:

freegate

Ultrasurf is accessible but dodgy most of the time as well. It was down for most people I checked with for the better half of Saturday. At normal times, when connections are established they drop incessantly which may be due to high traffic as many have no choice but to switch to Ultrasurf. Some days are better than others. While surfing I find myself constantly refreshing and cursing.

Other than this, normal surfing is fine; we just can’t get to a few million blocked websites. All this was to say posting here is a pain, and will probably be erratic until I find something stable.

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